Remodeling Job	Average Job Costs	Average Resale Value	Cost Recouped
Minor Kitchen Remodel	$ 8,047	$ 12,333	153%
Major Kitchen Remodel	$ 22,030	$ 28,358	129%
Bath Addition	$ 11,444	$ 12,000	105%
Bath Remodel	$ 8,344	$ 8,500	102%
Family Room Addition	$ 29,451	$ 28,333	96%
Master Bedroom Suite	$ 34,949	$ 30,000	86%
Siding Replacement	$ 4,618	$ 3,833	83%
Two-Story Addition	$ 53,676	$ 43,333	81%
Deck Addition	$ 5,717	$ 4,333	76%
Attic Bedroom	$ 22,854	$ 17,000	74%
Window Replacement	$ 5,614	$ 3,667	65%
Home Office	$ 8,627	$ 4,000	46%
Source: Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value Report, National Association of the Remodeling Industry

 

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Popular Remodeling Projects: Cost vs. Value

 

Updating and remodeling kitchens and baths will add the most value to your home. In some instances, these projects could possibly return more than 100% of the cost if the home is sold within a year. If the home is kept longer, returns should increase, according to Remodeling magazine.

Job Cost	Resale Value	Cost Recouped
Minor Kitchen Remodel Replace cabinet doors, oven and cook top, laminate counter tops, sink, faucet and floor, repaint.	$8,568	$8,355	98%
Major Kitchen Remodel Redesign kitchen, replacing all of the above, plus built in microwave, custom lighting, island.	$30,779	$37,432	122%
Bathroom Remodel Update existing bath with new tub, toilet, vanity, medicine cabinet, lighting, tile.	$9,044	$10,082	111%
Bathroom Addition Add a second bath to a house with 1 or 1.5 baths.	$13,779	$16,820	122%
Master Suite In a house with 2-3 bedrooms, add a 24-foot by 16-foot master suite with walk-in closet, whirlpool tub, separate shower.	$42,398	$41,788	99%
Two-Story Addition First-floor family room and second floor bedroom with full bath.	$72,817	$67,655	93%
Attic Bedroom In a 2-3 bedroom house, convert unfinished attic space with bedroom and shower/bath.	$26,734	$31,440	118%
Family Room Addition Add a 16- by 25-foot room with skylights, hardwood tongue-and-groove floor.	$30,650	$32,132	105%
Deck Addition 16'x20' deck of pressure-treated pine including built-in-bench, railings and planter.	$7,942	$6,595	83%
Replace Siding 1,250 square feet of new vinyl or aluminum siding and trim.	$5,099	$1,717	30%
Home Office Convert existing room into office with custom cabinetry and rewiring for electronic equipment	$8,272	$5,597	68%
Replace Windows 10 new 3'x5' aluminum-clad windows with trim.	$7,456	$7,139	96%
Source: Remodeling magazine, November 1999 Cost vs. Value

 

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Before You Hire A Contractor

 

A Contract between YOU and Your Home Improvement Contractor is a legally binding document that details the expectations and responsibilities of all parties involved in a project. It clarifies the goals of both homeowner and the home improvement contractor, and it protects each party's rights regarding the project.

 

Now Get Started with Your Home Improvement, Home Repair or Remodeling Project!

Your contract should include the items listed below. Scroll down for a thorough overview, or click the links below for a summary of each item. Keep in mind that this is simply a guide - contracts vary significantly by project.

 

CONTACT INFORMATION
It seems obvious, but make sure that you include in the contract the home improvement contractor's name, physical address, phone number, insurance company and account and license numbers. If there is a dispute, you need to know where the company is located (you can't serve a subpoena if you don't have a physical address - a post office box number won't do!), the company owner, the name of the insurance and bonding carriers and the way by which you can reach all involved parties.

 

SCOPE OF WORK
Require a complete description of the work to be done. This includes the overall scope of the work as well as individual aspects of the project; from foundation and framing to all finish work required. The type and quality of all materials should be spelled out, including manufacturers, brand name, quantity, weight, color, style, and size. Be sure allowances for fixtures, floor coverings, etc. are sufficient to provide you with the level of quality you require. In addition, indicate all equipment, such as scaffolding or cement mixers, which will be used over the course of the project. If you have architectural plans, include them in this section as well.

If you decide to change the scope of the work during the job by either adding or subtracting items, you should make sure there is a written change order, with project cost and timing changes signed off on by both the contactor and homeowner.

 

PROJECT SCHEDULE
Clearly define the project's start date, and secure from your contractor the approximate length of time it will take to complete the project. At the outset, ask that your contractor convey all potential conflicts that might arise due to other projects with which he or she is concurrently involved. You will find that most contractors are reluctant to sign a contract that includes late penalty clauses, but it still may be an item that you care to pursue. Finally, specify the time that workers will arrive and depart each day, and mention the days, if any, that they are not to work.

 

SCHEDULE OF PAYMENTS
There are no hard and fast rules as to how a contractor collects his or her fees. Some don't collect until the work is completed, while others ask for 50% up front. The average is three payments; the first when the bulk of materials are delivered or when a foundation is poured; a second payment when the job is half complete; and 20% when the job is essentially complete. A holdback of 10% is normal until the job has been inspected and the paperwork is complete. There are two customary ways of paying for a large job:

1. Cost plus flat fee: usually there will be draws set up with the homeowner. The contractor uses the draw to pay actual versus estimated costs, and submits all receipts and accounting on a regular basis. Flat fees average 13% to 20% and are usually paid, along with the draws, as the job progresses. This method allows great flexibility to make changes as the job proceeds, but it is more difficult to estimate the final cost.

2. Bid basis. Your contractor estimates the job, and provides a contract with all materials and fees included. You and your contractor agree on a payment schedule, referencing stages of completion in the work.

In both cases above, it is up to you to be certain that each stage is indeed completed before handing over a check. If you're not familiar enough with electrical or plumbing work, for example, to know if the proper stage has been completed to make the payment, you might consider hiring a consultant to advise you.

Note: If financing is necessary, be certain that a clause is added stating that the contract is void unless and until financing is obtained.

 

BUILDING PLANS & PERMITS
Be sure the home improvement contractor states in writing that he/she will submit any building plans needed to the city code compliance department, obtain all necessary permits and arrange for all inspections required. If the work does not pass inspection, the contractor must bear the cost of corrections.

 

LICENSING & INSURANCE
Make sure to do your homework on your contractor's licensing and insurance. Contractor licensing requirements vary by state. Research these regulations prior to beginning your project, and require that your contractor provide proof of current licensing if relevant.
Mandate in your contract that the home improvement contractor provide proof of all required insurance. This should include, but may not be limited to, general liability and worker's compensation for his or her employees.

 

CONTRACT CANCELLATION
In nearly all cases, a contract may be canceled within three days after you've signed it - simply send written notice by registered mail and request a signed receipt from your contractor.

 

CONFLICT RESOLUTION
In order to prepare for conflicts between homeowner and contractor that cannot be resolved, all contracts should include clauses specifying what forms of arbitration should be conducted and by whom.

 

MECHANIC'S LIENS
It is not unusual for home improvement contractors to place a mechanic's lien on a homeowner's property at the time of contract signing. This is a legal claim to real property until a debt is paid. If you aren't comfortable with this, make sure the appropriate language is in the contract forbidding it. Subcontractors may also place liens on a property in the event that the contractor fails to pay them. Make sure that you get waivers signed by all subcontractors as they complete their work. Before making final payments to your contractor, have him or her provide you with a final release and waiver of any mechanic's liens. These come in two forms: conditional and unconditional. A contractor will give you a conditional release in exchange for payment in full by personal check. Once the check has been cashed, the release becomes unconditional. An unconditional release can be immediately secured by paying in full with a certified check.

 

HOME IMPROVEMENT PROJECT WARRANTIES
Make sure the written guarantee on both labor and materials is included. This warranty should include the name and address of the party who will honor the guarantee. Also, the contract should stipulate if it is either a "full" or "limited" warranty. An average warranty for labor is for a minimum of one year. Require that you be given all written warranties provided with any appliances, materials or equipment used in the project.

 

PUNCH LISTS
A punch list is a running tally of all outstanding items related to the project that the home improvement contractor must address. Include in the contract a clause stating that both the homeowner and the contractor must sign off on all items detailed on the punch list before the project can be deemed complete.

 

THE BRASS TACKS
The brass tacks, so to speak, are those little details that can make the difference between a positive experience and a homeowner's nightmare. While there are innumerable things that you could address, here are some specific issues worth mentioning:

• Project clean up: Will workers clean up everything at the end of each day? Will clean up require special effort, and at additional cost? Which party is responsible for additional cost incurred?

• Equipment on the property: Will heavy machinery damage pavement, patios, the lawn, etc.?

• Debris removal: Who is responsible for removing project-related debris from the site, and what is considered removal? Is the curb or alley sufficient?

• Toilets: Can workers use your home's toilets, or will you require portable toilets?

• Telephone: Can workers use your home phones?

And there are plenty of others - think through and address every way in which your life and home could be affected by a major project prior to signing a contract.

 

Contact the local chapter of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) - and ask them for a directory of local members. They have strict membership requirements, including a code of ethics and ethics committees.

Run the names on your list by the local building department. Like the trade associations, the building department probably won't recommend any one home improvement company - but the people behind the desk will tell you if they recognize names and will perhaps provide some recent history about them or find recent jobs they've worked on in the permit books.

Go to a local lumberyard that caters to home improvement professionals and ask the people behind the contractor's desk (not the retail counter) about the names on your list. Like the building department, they might provide some insight, if not an actual recommendation.

Contact the local Better Business Bureau (BBB) Consumer Affairs Agency, Contractors Licensing Board (usually a state agency, if there is one at all), and the Chamber of Commerce. Don't be too shocked if some of those on your list have claims against them - home remodeling is one of the most common complaints reported to the BBB and other watchdog agencies.

Look in the yellow pages for those left on your list. The purpose here is not to gauge how much was spent on an ad, but rather how the ad is presented. Does it mention professional affiliations? Does it list a contractor's license number, if appropriate? Some builders may advertise a model that you can visit. While most ads will include buzzwords like "quality" and "service," look for other key words like "design services available" and "warranty." And don't necessarily be wary of a free consultation offer; most professionals are willing to invest some time to get your business and welcome the chance to meet you face-to-face to present themselves.

 

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13 Common Breeding Ground For Mold

 

Problem #1

Leaky air-conditioning duct joints, especially those running through a hot attic, create a moist environment for mildew.

Solution: Seal all duct joints with the special flexible mastic available heating and cooling supply stores.

 

Problem #2

In warm environments, impermeable vinyl wallcoverings can trap moisture-laden air as it moves from the warm exterior to the cooler interior. Mold degrades the drywall and adhesive behind the vinyl wallcovering.

Solution: Use paint or apply wallcoverings with permeable paper backings that don't trap moisture on exterior walls.

 

Problem #3

When washing machines in a room without a floor drain overflow or hose connections burst, water with no point of exit will soak into adjacent carpet, drywall and insulation.

Solution: Always provide a floor drain near the washing machine. Install an overflow pan directly under the machine or install a 1-in. lip at the doorway to contain overflows in main-level or second-story laundry rooms.

 

Problem #4

Water-resistant drywall used as a the backer quickly degrades once subjected to moisture.

Solution: Install cement backer board, which will remain structurally sound even if repeatedly subjected to moisture.

 

Problem #5

Poorly ventilated bathrooms allow surface mold to grow.

Solution: Install a bathroom fan (or at least, open a window) to exhaust moisture. Remove surface mildew by scrubbing the area with a 1/2 percent bleach solution. When the area is dry, prime it with an alcohol-based, white pigmented shellac, such as Zinsser Bullseye, and use a paint containing mildewcide.

 

Problem #6

Poorly constructed crawlspaces promote mildew growth. Bare earth floors transmit huge amounts of moisture.

Solution: There are many regional differences and solutions. Cover bare earth with 6-mil poly sheeting. Heat, cool and humidify the area the same as the rest of the house.

 

Problem #7

Freshly cut firewood stored indoors emits huge amounts of moisture.

Solution: Store it outside.

 

Problem #8

Humidifiers (especially reservoir-type central units and portable units) provide both a growth medium and a distribution system for mold and mildew.

Solution: Clean and treat the reservoir often with an antimicrobial solution, available at most hardware stores.

 

Problem #9

The condensation pan directly under the coil of your central air conditioner can harbor mold.

Solution: Before each cooling season, clean the pan with a 1/2 percent bleach solution and make sure the continuous drain is working.

 

Problem #10

Finished concrete basements that haven't been thoroughly waterproofed from the outside are problematic. When moisture migrates through the earth and non-waterproofed concrete walls, it can get trapped behind vapor barriers, carpet, layers of insulation and drywall.

 

Problem #11

Yards that slope toward foundations invite water to enter basements and crawlspaces.

Solution: Regrade yard surrounding house so it slopes away at a rate of 1 in. per foot.

 

Problem #12

Improperly flashed or caulked windows (and those with large amounts of surface condensation) let moisture seep the surrounding wood, drywall and insulation.

Solution: Properly flash and caulk windows during installation; minimize condensation with good ventilation and airflow.

 

Problem #13

Leaky flashings and shingles allow rain to infiltrates and other areas that can trap moisture and be difficult to inspect.

Solution: Perform yearly roof inspections--even if you do it from the ground with binoculars.

Besides damaging your house, mold can cause severe health problems.

 

IT'S DOING THAT TO MY HEALTH?

One consultant we interviewed confessed he crawls around in moldy places day after day, month in and month out, and never suffers ill effects. Others--some estimate about 10 percent of the population--are severely allergic to mold. It's primarily the dinky reproductive spores that people react to. Twenty of them sitting side by side could fit across the period at the end of this sentence. That means they're hard to filter out. The spores also have an incredible "hang time" (as my teenage son would say); they're able to stay suspended in midair for hours on end. That means they're easily inhaled.

With even slight exposure to molds and spores, sensitive people may experience headaches, runny noses, skin rashes, nausea, sinus problems, memory loss and coughs. They may feel listless for long periods of time. In short, they feel as though they have a perpetual case of the flu. Newborns, the elderly, the sick, and those with compromised immune systems can be affected severely, even fatally. Babies and toddlers, who love to crawl around on possibly moldy carpets and stick possibly moldy things in their mouths, also are highly vulnerable to mold-induced illnesses. Super-sensitive people often go to extremes to rid their houses of the materials that harbor the dirt and dust that molds feed on. They'll replace soft, textured materials with smooth, hard surfaces that are easier to keep clean and less likely to trap debris and moisture. Out go the carpets and draperies; in come hardwood floors and metal window blinds. Out go the cushy couches; in come the vinyl chairs.

Tightly sealed newer houses may be better at holding in heat, but they're also more likely to trap moisture and spores. Mechanical ventilation, like an air-to-air heat exchanger, is critical for healthy air quality in tightly sealed new homes.

In truth, most of us fall somewhere between the two extremes of invincibility and super sensitivity. But even "normal" folks will react to unusually high concentrations of mold and spores. And the time you're most likely to stir up spores and inhale and ingest them is the very time you're trying to get rid of the stuff. That's when you need to be the most careful.

 

DISPOSE OF IT CORRECTLY OR YOU'LL JUST MAKE MATTERS WORSE

Step one in getting rid of mold is to fix the moisture problem that's setting the stage for its growth. This is key. You can scrub, dispose of and replace moldy materials, but until you fix the problem, mold will keep returning. The fix can be as simple as sealing up leaky air-conditioning ducts (Fig. B) or as daunting as reshingling a leaky roof or regrading your yard so water runs away from, rather than toward, your foundation. Sewer backups and floods also set up ideal environments for mold and mildew growth.

Once the moisture problems are fixed, get rid of the moldy materials carefully. Rough handling of damaged materials will not only stir up spores and spread them even farther around your house but also launch zillions of spores into the air, where you'll inhale them. One square foot of moldy drywall can harbor more than 300 million mold spores; slamdunk that onto the basement floor and you're just opening another Pandora's box. Even dormant spores inhabiting dried-out materials are irritating to inhale, and if they find moist environs again, they can zip back to life and establish new colonies.

 

The smart way to get rid of moldy building materials

THE KEY TO REMOVING MOLDY MATERIALS is containment and thoroughness. Seal off the area. Create a crude "air lock" door to contain spores and dust by covering the opening with a sheet of poly slit in the center, then cover that with another sheet or flap. Wear a respirator and work slowly and surely. Double-bag or wrap all materials, then wash all remaining hard surfaces with a 1/2 percent bleach solution and let dry.

* Wear a good cartridge-type respirator, available through a medical or safety equipment supplier. One good mask is a Willson triple-seal respirator  with a P100 filter cartridge. A simple dust or particulate mask doesn't offer adequate protection. Wear gloves and goggles if you're scraping.

* If your basement or main floor has flooded, get it as dry as possible within the first 72 hours, before mold and mildew can get established. Drill holes in drywall or remove lower sections of it to let the inner wall and insulation dry out.

* Close off any ventilation grilles with polyethylene sheeting and duct tape. Shut down your furnace so the blower doesn't spread spores and dust throughout the house.

* Remove everything--furniture, pictures, lamps--from the room.

 

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